cravings and wanderlust: Getting Lost in Venice

Getting lost in Venice seems to be the right thing to do. The city feels shrouded in this dreamy and magical stupor, where everything seems to be going on as usual, but you get the nagging feeling that something has come to a standstill since eons ago. There's a dust of rustic glamour everywhere, with buildings looking like they desperately need a new coat of paint, but you suspend your disbelief because you know this only adds to its charm. Perhaps wandering aimlessly along the canals is the only way to feel the city for what it is. To kill the romance and put it succinctly, you know you're in a tourist trap but you still buy the concept of Venice.

Dining in Venice was full of hits and misses. For one, if you're on a budget, your best bet will be 2.50 euro pizzas. In Venice, what you pay is mostly what you get. We also went in January, a time when many of the reputable restaurants were taking their vacations. You can imagine my disappointment. If you're on a budget, look out for places that serve Cichetti (Venetian-style Tapas, about 1 to 2 euros per stick). At Cantina do Spade, we enjoyed a nice snack of house pours with Cichetti (Venetian-style Tapas), which was interesting and tasty, albeit a little cold and high on the grease scale. The food wasn't that great, but it was fun to see so many locals enjoying the afternoon downing house pours. I also had a very good slice of Tiramisu from one of the Confectioneries. It's probably not the best out there, but for just 1 euro, it was immensely satisfying.

Since Nero di Seppia (Squid in Squid Ink) is the indisputable Venetian Specialty, I had to try it. The Polenta Nella Seppia (Squid in Squid Ink Sauce with Polenta) I had at Vino Vino was the best dish out of everything we had that night. We hadn't planned on going to Vino Vino, but the restaurant we were trying to find (featured in Chubby Hubby's Venice Guides) was closed for vacation, so we winded up there. I really wish I tried at least one of the restaurants Chubby Hubby wrote about. His enthusiasm for Venice is very infectious.